A Guide To Shirt Cuffs

Shirt cuffs have a disproportionate impact on the way one’s outfit is perceived. As the cuff of one’s shirt is mostly covered by the jacket sleeve, it is often an afterthought when getting dressed. For those who want to pay a little more attention to this element of their shirts, there are three main things to consider:

Firstly, one must choose between a single or a double cuff. Single cuffs are the simplest, and take up the least amount of space under the jacket sleeve as the fabric is not folded back on itself. In modern use, single cuffs are almost always secured with buttons rather than cufflinks. The only exception to this is for white tie, where the shirt will be made with a stiff single cuff with holes for links rather than buttons.

Double cuffs are folded back on themselves and most often secured with a link. This creates a cleaner look at the edge of the sleeve as there is no visible stitching near the hand, which is more formal. If worn with links, this cuff also provides an opportunity to accessorise.

The second thing to consider is cuff size. The length of the cuff is very important as anything shorter than 2 ¾” risks exposing your shirt sleeve when you extend your arm. The circumference of the cuff is also very important. If the cuff is too narrow, it will cause discomfort at the wrist, but if it is too wide the shirt will sag down onto the hand. At Shepherd’s, we can measure each cuff circumference individually to account for asymmetries, usually caused by watches or other jewellery.

The final design element of a shirt cuff to consider is exclusive to single cuffs. This is largely a matter of personal preference, and pertains to the shape of the edge of the cuff as well as the number of buttons. Usually single cuffs will have one or two buttons, with a square, mitred, or rounded edge. This has little-to-no impact on the functionality of the cuff, but will make the shirt feel your own if designed in alignment with your own desires.